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Behind the Bar — Natnaree Deenonngiw

March 30, 2021

Behind the Bar — Natnaree Deenonngiw

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We were lucky to catch Nat. A woman with endless talents, she's one of the founders of both How Are You? (see here) and Knead (see here), and she had one of the best barista CV's to ever land in our laps. Thanks, Universe.

Nat worked for Roots Coffee in Bangkok for almost 3 years and is now part of the team at our coffee bar in Commercial Bay in downtown Auckland. We asked her a few quick questions about her journey into, and love for, the coffee industry and we hope you enjoy getting to know her a little better below!

What is your first memory of coffee?
My first memory about coffee is from when I was young. I saw my parents had coffee every morning and that was first time I fell in love with smell. My first coffees started with lattes but these days I prefer to drink black coffee.

How did you first get into the coffee industry, and what do you love the most about it?
Firstly I jumped into the industry because I love to spend time in cafés. I just love the atmosphere and I thought it could be great if I can work there and can get bottomless cups haha. But more than that, I really wanted to know how to make a good coffee.

Like I said I love the atmosphere and love meeting people. We welcome them with a big smile and a good brew. We’re not just making the coffee but I think we help the customer have a good day. We’re a community, friends, family.

Above — Nat with the Roots Coffee team visiting coffee farms in Northern Thailand & making her favourite V60 at Roots the COMMONS BKK.  

And what made you want to work at our Commercial Bay coffee bar?
Before I came to New Zealand, I researched where the best coffee is in Auckland and Kōkako was my answer :) Not just delicious but I admired the commitment to Fairtrade organic and sustainable coffee.

When you’re not pulling shots, what will we find you doing?  
I love to go to gigs, eat out, and I love to spend time at home experiment some new things. Now I’m really into making candles!

Above — Nat pictured with the other Knead co-founders, some of their work and Nat's candles

What's your favourite coffee?
Short black, I enjoy sipping the coffee and trying to figure out what the coffee taste is like. It’s my favourite.

And when you're not drinking coffee, what do you drink?
8 glasses of water a day if I can and a negroni when I go out.

Best coffee moment to date?
Going to Roots the COMMONS BKK – It’s a sexy one for me. There's just 5 seats which makes it feel like you’re going to a bar. They serve a beautiful coffee.

If you could use only one piece of brewing equipment for the rest of your life, what would that be?
V60 – I love when I’m brewing with this equipment because you have to be patient and concentrate. It feels like meditation to me haha. It’s neat.

Can you please also draw us a picture of your favourite building in Auckland?
Sky tower – it’s an icon of Auckland isn’t it?    

 

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Grind Guide

Picking the best grind for your coffee brew

Whole beans

Best option if you have a home grinder

Plunger

Best for plungers, cold brew coffee pots and Clever Drippers

Filter — Pour over

Best for Chemex, V60 and AeroPress

Filter — Machine

Best for Moccamaster

Espresso

Best for home espresso machines and refillable pods

Brew Guides

All the gear but no idea? We'll teach you how to make a barista-worthy brew with whatever you're working with.

Plunger

V60 & Kalita

Espresso

Chemex

AeroPress

Moccamaster

Cold Brew

Clever Dripper

Plunger

Plungers may appear very straightforward to use. However, a little understanding of the right technique and a well-chosen coffee can turn a plain cup of coffee into an immensely enjoyable one! We have prepared these instructions to help you get the most out of your coffee.

You will need
  • 3 Cup Plunger
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Programmable water boiler or kettle
  • Stirrer
  • Scales
  • 20g fresh Kōkako coffee
  • 300g fresh filtered water, plus extra water to preheat French Press
  1. Add filtered water to your kettle and boil to 96°C. If you do not have a temperature programmable water kettle, boil the kettle and leave it to stand for around 30 seconds - the water should then be close to 96°C.
  2. Remove the plunger, and preheat the glass chamber with hot water.
  3. Weigh out 20g of fresh beans and grind on a coarse setting.
  4. Discard the heating water from the glass chamber, and add the ground coffee. Place it on the scales and set to zero.
  5. Gently pour 40g water onto your grounds. Stir the slurry and leave for 30 seconds – the coffee grinds will start to ‘bloom’.
  6. Pour the remaining water into the chamber and place the plunger gently on top of the grounds. Let the coffee steep for 3 and a half minutes.
  7. Gently remove the plunger from the scale, hold the handle firmly and press the plunger down using only the weight of your hand.
  8. Once the plunger is fully compressed, turn the lid to open the spout and pour away!

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, fresh ground coffee beans and filtered water for best results. But if you don’t have access to your own grinder, get your coffee pre-ground to a coarse plunger grind.
  • For any size of plunger, we recommend using with a 1:15 coffee-to-water ratio. 
  • To achieve a full expression of the coffee, decant it immediately after brewing so it doesn’t become bitter or chalky.
  • For a cleaner cup, skim the surface of the brew with a spoon to remove the crust before plunging.
  • Lowering the plunger with minimal pressure creates the best results.
  • Applying too much pressure can cause scalding liquid to shoot out of the spout.

V60 & Kalita

The V60’s name comes from vector 60, the 60° angle of its cone, and is made by the famous Japanese glassware brand, Hario. The V60 was first introduced in glass and ceramic, then plastic, and finally in metal. The V60 is carefully designed with a cone shape, spiral ribs, and a large single hole to drip through — these factors make the brewer more responsive to water flow and grind size than any other on the market, meaning the user has more control over the brewing process.

You will need
  • V60 02 dripper
  • V60 02 (1-4 cup) paper filter
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Scales
  • Programmable water boiler or kettle
  • Pour-over kettle
  • 15g fresh Kōkako Coffee
  • 250g fresh filtered water, and additional water to rinse filter and pre-heat unit
Instructions

  1. Boil the water to 96°C. Fold the filter along the seams, open up the filter and place it into the V60 brewer cone.
  2. Place your V60 on a vessel — a carafe or mug. Thoroughly rinse the filter with hot water to remove the papery taste, then discard this water. This helps the paper sit well, and also heats the V60 and the vessel.
  3. Place the V60 and vessel on your scale and tare to zero. Weigh out and grind 15g of coffee to medium grind setting.
  4. Pour around 40g of water, just enough to saturate the grinds. This will initiate the “blooming”. Start the timer from the moment the water hits the coffee and allow the bloom to stand for around 20 to 30 seconds.
  5. Pour the remaining 210g of water gently on top of the ground coffee in a circular motion from the outside of the filter towards the centre.
  6. Let the coffee filter through until the coffee bed is level. This should take about 2 minutes and 30 seconds to 3 minutes.

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, fresh ground coffee beans and filtered water for best results.
  • Use a gooseneck kettle for greatest control, otherwise, it can be difficult to pour in a circular motion which is important for controlling water flow
  • Pour counter-clockwise. This will create more turbulence in the coffee bed which will create better extraction.
  • For consistent results, add around 70g of water on each pour in 10-20 second intervals up to a total of 210g.
  • When the brew is complete, the coffee bed should be flat or subtly domed and the filter wall should be clean

Espresso

It is possible to recreate your favourite barista made flat white, long black, or any other espresso based drink on a home espresso machine! Though baristas often go through rigorous training and spend many hours a week behind the machine to perfect their technique, below are the basics of making a double shot of espresso on an espresso machine. Every machine works differently, producing varying results, however these are the recipes and basic steps we use to prepare espresso.

You will need
  • Espresso machine
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Scales
  • Tamper
  • Fresh Kōkako Coffee
  • Pour-over kettle
  • fresh filtered water to fill up the water tank
Instructions

  1. Recommended Kokako Coffee Recipe Aotea
    Dose (coffee in) 18g

    Yield (coffee out) 36g

    Extraction 28-30 seconds Mahana or Swiss Water Decaf

    Dose (coffee in) 19g

    Yield (coffee out) 34g

    Extraction 25-28 seconds
  2. Turn on and preheat the espresso machine including the portafilter.
    This can take up to 30minutes for some machines, so get your machine warming up in advance.
  3. Wipe the portafilter basket clean with dry cloth. Ensure all basket holes are clear.
    Both moisture and leftover grounds might make your espresso taste astringent and bitter.
  4. Place your portafilter on the scale and tare to zero, then fill the portafilter basket with 18g of Aotea ground coffee.
    This way you can be sure that your extraction will be correct because your dose won’t be too much or little.
  5. Distribute the coffee grinds evenly in the portafilter basket.
    Most likely your grinder will dose the grounds to the portafilter’s basket to a mountain shape. When distributing, the aim is for a consisting of an even and spread flat mass of grinds: no air pockets, divots, or cracks. Bad distribution can lead to channelling and uneven extraction
  6. Tamp evenly and consistently.
    The aim of tamping is to remove any air pockets in the coffee puck and to collapse clumps of grinds (if you turned the portafilter upside down, the coffee wouldn’t fall out.). Pay attention that the puck is horizontally leveled so that you avoid channeling and uneven extraction. Flush your group head before inserting the portafilter to the group head, you might want to rinse the group head to remove any old coffee.
  7. Insert the portafilter and start brewing immediately.
    If you don’t start brewing immediately, the heat from the group head can burn the surface of your coffee which leads to bitter note in the cup.
  8. Be aware of the yield & brew time.
    There should be a short delay before the coffee pours, between 3-8 seconds depending on your machine. Then the first part of the extraction will begin to drip from the spout then develop into a gentle, even stream and stop the shot to make 36g of espresso. This will take about 30 seconds. Discard the puck, clean the basket and rinse the group head.

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, fresh ground coffee beans and filtered water for best results.
  • Keep your espresso machine and grinder clean. You can’t make good coffee if your machine is dirty or in need of repair.

Chemex

The Chemex was invented in 1941 by chemist Dr. Peter Schlumbohm—his focus was on making everyday objects not only functional, but attractive and enjoyable to use. He was clearly successful in this vision; the Museum of Modern Art displayed it as one of the best-designed products in 1943, and coffee makers to this day love the aesthetics of this brewer.

The secret to the clarity in a Chemex cup is in the heavy paper filter which traps bitter fats and oils, resulting in a cup which is light, bright and delicately nuanced.

3 Cup Chemex
You will need
  • 3 Cup Chemex
  • Chemex Half-Moon Filter
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Scales
  • Programmable water boiler or kettle
  • Pour-over kettle
  • 18g fresh Kōkako Coffee
  • 300ml fresh, filtered water, and additional water for rinsing your paper filter
  1. Bring the water to the boil then allow it to stand for 30 seconds. This will give you the ideal brewing temperature of 96°C.
  2. Fold the Chemex Half-Moon Filter in half. Fold the small quarter-circle extension at the bottom over and then fold the entire filter in half again. Separate the 3rd and 4th layers of the folded circle, opening it into a cone and placing it into the Chemex. Place the thicker, multi-layered side of the filter against the pouring spout. This will allow air to escape during the brewing process.
  3. Rinse the filter with plenty of hot water. This preheats the Chemex and also ensures any flavours from the new filter paper are flushed out before the coffee is brewed. Leave the filter in place and discard this water.
  4. Grind your coffee to a medium-coarse grind and add it to the filter. Place your Chemex on your scales and tare to zero.
  5. Pour over a small amount of water (around 50g), just enough to saturate the grinds. This will initiate the “bloom” period. Start the timer from the moment the water hits the coffee, and allow the coffee to bloom for around 30 seconds.
  6. Continue pouring in a circular motion avoiding the sides of the Chemex filter. Keep a close eye on the scales, and add around 83g of water on each pour in 10-20 second intervals up to a total of 300g.
  7. Brewing time should ideally be around 3 and a half minutes. Once all the water has filtered through, remove the filter and place in the compost. Your coffee is now ready to enjoy.
6 Cup Chemex
You will need
  • 6 Cup Chemex
  • Chemex 6-8 Cup Filter
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Scales
  • Programmable water boiler or kettle
  • Pour-over kettle
  • 29g fresh Kōkako Coffee
  • 500ml fresh, filtered water, and additional water for rinsing your paper filter
  1. Bring the water to the boil then allow it to stand for 30 seconds. This will give you the ideal brewing temperature of 96°C.
  2. Open the Chemex filter into a cone and place it into the Chemex. Place the thicker, multi-layered side of the filter against the pouring spout.
  3. Rinse the filter with plenty of hot water. This preheats the Chemex and also ensures any flavours from the new filter paper are flushed out before the coffee is brewed. Leave the filter in place and discard this water.
  4. Grind your coffee to a medium-coarse grind and add it to the filter. Place your Chemex on your scales and tare to zero.
  5. Pour over a small amount of water (around 100g), just enough to saturate the grinds. This will initiate the “bloom” period. Start the timer from the moment the water hits the coffee, and allow the coffee to bloom for around 30 seconds.
  6. Continue pouring in a circular motion, avoiding the sides of the Chemex filter. Keep a close eye on the scales, and add around 100g of water on each pour in 10-20 second intervals up to a total of 500g.
  7. Brewing time should ideally be around 4 and a half minutes. Once all the water has filtered through, remove the filter and place in the compost. Your coffee is now ready to enjoy.

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, freshly ground coffee beans and filtered water.
  • When pouring, you should look for dark spots on the surface of the slurry and target your pour to submerge these spots. Always pour in a slow and controlled way. To achieve this we recommend a gooseneck kettle.
  • When the brew is complete, the coffee bed should be flat or subtly domed and the filter wall should be clean.

AeroPress

The AeroPress was invented in 2005 by Alan Adler, the creator of the Aerobie throwing ring—hence the name. It is a portable coffee brewer that many coffee professionals take with them when they travel around the world. When you factor in the full-bodied flavour that can be achieved through the AeroPress and the ease of cleaning, it is easy to see why this coffee brewer has such a dedicated following.

You will need
  • AeroPress kit and AeroPress filter
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Programmable water boiler or kettle
  • Scales
  • Programmable water boiler or kettle
  • Scales
  • 17g fresh Kōkako Coffee
  • 250g fresh filtered water, additional water for rinsing your paper filter
Standard method
  1. Add filtered water to a kettle and boil to 96°C. If you do not have a temperature programmable water kettle, boil the kettle and leave it to stand for around 30 seconds, it should then be close to 96°C.
  2. Weigh out 17g of whole bean coffee and grind on a medium setting, similar to a filter grind.
  3. Place a filter paper into the filter cap, and lock into the main chamber of the brewer. Rinse the filter and preheat the AeroPress chamber with hot water, as this avoids any papery taste from the filter. In addition, rinse your mug with hot water to warm it up.
  4. Place your mug on your scales and set the main part of the brewer on top with the filter at the bottom. Pour the ground coffee on top of the filter, using the Aeropress funnel to avoid spillage.
  5. Add 40g of hot water on top of the ground coffee, gently stir, then leave for around 30 seconds. This is to saturate the coffee grounds and to bloom.
  6. Add the remaining 210g of water, stir once, insert the plunger into the main chamber.
  7. Leave the brew to infuse for around 30 seconds, then press down slowly for around 30 seconds until you begin to hear a hissing sound.
Inverted Method
  1. Add filtered water to a kettle and boil to 96°C. If you do not have a temperature programmable water kettle, boil the kettle and leave it to stand for around 30 seconds, it should then be close to 96°C.
  2. Weigh out 17g of whole bean coffee and grind on a medium setting, similar to a filter grind.
  3. Place a filter paper into the filter cap, and lock into the main chamber of the brewer. Rinse the filter and preheat the AeroPress chamber with hot water, as this avoids any papery taste from the filter. In addition, rinse your mug with hot water to warm it up.
  4. Insert the plunger into the main chamber, just enough to form a seal. It should now balance on the plunger, leaving the other end of the chamber open and facing up. Place on the scale.
  5. Pour the ground coffee into the chamber, using the Aeropress funnel to avoid spillage.
  6. Add 40g of hot water on top of the ground coffee, gently stir, then leave for around 30 seconds. This is to saturate the coffee grounds and to bloom.
  7. Add the remaining 210g of water, stir once, then screw the filter cap (with filter paper) in place.
  8. Steep for 45 seconds, invert the whole Aeropress and place on top of your mug, then press down slowly for 30 seconds, until you begin to hear a hissing sound.

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, freshly ground coffee beans and filtered water.
  • Compress the AeroPress in a slow and controlled way. Do not press too quickly.
  • You can try different ratios to suit the coffee you are using or your own personal preference.

Moccamaster

The Moccamaster is made by Technivorm, a Dutch manufacturer founded in 1964. Each unit is hand made and assembled, with many new versions made over the years to create various colourways and shapes. The Moccamaster brews 1.25l of delicious filter coffee, quietly and efficiently, in under 6 minutes — straight into its glass carafe. Simple to use, you can even get the brew started and walk away if you’re a busy household, the Moccamaster does the pouring for you!

You will need
  • Technivorm Moccamaster
  • Moccamaster #4 paper filter
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Scales
  • 60g fresh Kōkako coffee per 1000g (1L) of water. To make a full 1.25L brew, use 75g coffee
  • 1250g (1.25L) filtered room temperature water
Instructions

  1. Ensuring the on/off button at the bottom of the unit is switched off, place the paper filter into the filter basket, folding down the closed edges to fit inside the basket. Rinse with some water to wash away any paper fibres, and set the flow valve on the side of the basket to closed (the bottom setting).
  2. Grind your coffee on a medium-coarse filter grind, transfer into the filter, and put the filter basket in place on the unit. Place the thermos or carafe under the coffee filter basket.
  3. Fill the water reservoir on top of the unit to number 10 (1.25L).
  4. Turn on the Moccamaster, and allow the water to automatically drip into the filter basket until it reaches number 8 on the reservoir. At this point, give the filter basket a gentle shake from left to right, or a gentle stir with a wooden stirrer. This is the blooming process. Then lift the flow valve to fully open (the top setting) and allow the rest of the water to drip through. This should take about 5 minutes, until the reservoir is empty.
  5. Once all the water has filtered through the coffee grinds, discard the filter. You can compost both the grounds and paper filter. Your delicious filter coffee is now ready to enjoy.

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, freshly ground coffee beans for the best tasting brew. But if you don’t have access to your own grinder, get your coffee pre-ground to a medium-coarse filter grind.
  • The 1:16 ratio recipe we use is what we enjoy most, and a great place to start. But feel free to change your coffee to water ratio a little to find the perfect taste for you!
  • If you’re rushing around and needing your Moccamaster to do its thing while you’re busy, set the flow valve to open from the beginning and let the water run through from start to end.

Cold Brew

Cold brew is one of the easiest and cost-effective ways to make several cups of delicious coffee, which can be kept in the fridge for days. Cold brew, as the name suggests, is never exposed to heat. Steeping coarse ground coffee in cold water for 12—24 hours produces a light and delicate beverage, low in acidity, designed to be served over ice or with your choice of milk.

You will need
  • Hario 600mL Cold Brew Pot
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Scales
  • 50g fresh Kōkako coffee
  • 600g cold filtered water
Instructions

  1. Grind your coffee to a coarse plunger grind. Add the ground coffee to the mesh filter, and place inside the glass flask.
  2. Add 100g of cold filtered water and stir gently to ensure all the coffee grounds are saturated. This is to “bloom” the coffee.
  3. After stirring, slowly add 500g of water and put the lid on the flask. Leave it to steep for 12-24 hours in the fridge.
  4. Once the coffee is finished steeping, remove the filter and put the grinds in the compost. Thoroughly clean and dry the filter so it’s ready for next time! Your cold-brewed coffee is now ready to enjoy, and it will keep in the fridge for 4-5 days.

For a 1l cold brew maker, follow this same guide, but using 85g of freshly ground coffee to 1l of cold filtered water. Bloom with 200g of water, then add the remaining 800g.

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, fresh ground coffee beans and filtered water for best results. But if you don’t have access to your own grinder, get your coffee pre-ground to a coarse plunger grind.
  • Add water in a slow, controlled way and don’t allow the coffee grinds to sit too high up in the filter, ensure they are all submerged.
  • If you find a lot of sediment at the bottom of your brewer once the coffee is brewed, you will need to make your grind size coarser to eliminate fines getting through the filter.
  • For best results, infuse the coffee for a minimum of 12 hours, and a maximum of 24 hours — you can adjust this to your own taste.
  • If you have a 1l cold brew coffee pot, use 80g coffee to 1L water and follow the same method.
  • You can also make this cold brew with a non-Hario cold brew maker, by following a 1:12 coffee to water ratio.

Clever Dripper

The Clever Dripper’s design and functionality sits it somewhere between a plunger and a pour over brewer – it is an immersion brewer, which has a unique valve underneath, allowing control of water flow. This achieves both a full-bodied and clean cup – the best of both worlds in one very easy to use brewer.

You will need
  • Clever Dripper
  • Paper filter, we use the #4 Moccamaster filters
  • Adjustable burr grinder
  • Scales
  • Pour-over kettle
  • 25g fresh Kōkako Coffee
  • 400g fresh, filtered water and additional for rinsing your paper filter
Instructions

  1. Add filtered water to your kettle and boil to 95°C. If you do not have a temperature programmable water kettle, boil the kettle and leave it to stand for around 45 seconds - the water should then be close to 95°C.
  2. Fold the closed edges of the paper filter down, and place the filter inside the Clever Dripper. Thoroughly rinse the filter with hot water to remove the papery taste, then discard this water. This helps the paper sit well, and also heats the Clever Dripper.
  3. Weigh out 25g of whole bean coffee and grind medium-coarse (slightly finer than plunger grind), pour into Clever Dripper and place on the scale. Tare the scale to zero.
  4. Pour in 75g of water, just enough to wet the grinds. This will initiate the “bloom” period. Start the timer from the moment the water hits the coffee and allow the bloom to stand for around 30 seconds.
  5. Pour the remaining 325g of water gently in a circular motion. Put the lid on top for heat retention.
  6. At about 2:30 to 3 minutes, you can draw down the coffee. To do this, take the Clever Dripper off the scale and place it atop a carafe or mug. This activates the draining valve, which allows the coffee to draw down. Let this continue until the coffee bed is level—it should not take more than 90 seconds (adjust your grind accordingly if this takes too long).

Extra tips for the best results

  • Use high quality, fresh ground coffee beans and filtered water for best results. But if you don’t have access to your own grinder, get your coffee pre-ground to a medium-coarse grind.
  • Always pour in a slow and controlled way. To achieve this we recommend a gooseneck kettle.
  • This recipe follows a 1:16 ratio — this can be adjusted according to how much coffee you’d like to brew, and depending on your personal preference.
  • If you do not have scales, you can estimate the amount of coffee and water required. 25g of coffee should sit approximately at the rounded bottom part of the dripper, and 400g water will reach between the top of the filter paper and the top of the vertical lines on the dripper.

Composting our bags at home

All of our coffee bags are compostable. You can either return your empty bags to us to compost for you, or you pop them in your compost at home. If you are going to compost at home, here are a few tips:

Tip 1

Remove the one-way valve and throw this in your landfill bin.

Tip 2

Chop the bag up – the smaller the pieces, the faster it’ll break down.

Tip 3

Mix into your compost bin.

Our packaging is made in NZ from sustainably-produced wood pulp and GM-free corn sources, and meets international composting standards.